Bethel Farms Blog

The challenge of managing sports turf in Florida

December 11th, 2011

South Florida offers its own set of challenges to turf managers. Aside from hurricanes, which can do an enormous amount of damage on their own (they absorb large amounts of salt water and bring it inland with the rainfall) turf managers in south Florida must deal with extremes of the area’s weather patterns.

There is the rainy season, and there is the dry season, with not much transition time between the two. The rainy season begins in June, along with the time frame designated as “hurricane season.”

Throughout the summer it is not unusual for south Florida to receive daily rainfall as regular afternoon thunderstorms move across the state. The east coast of Florida averages more than 60 inches of rain annually, the majority of it falling during the summer rainy season (June through September) and one other notable wet period occurring in late winter to early spring.

Hurricane season officially ends on November 30 of each year, but by then the state has moved into its dry season which typically runs from November through April. Drought conditions and wildfire risks are the dangers inherent to this season. For 2011-2012, the expected rainfall is below normal as predicted by NOAA who produces a continuously updated forecast for the dry season.

Location can bring its own set of challenges to turf grass managers, as noted by Chris Denson, manager of Cobb Stadium, at the University of Miami in Coral Gables, winner of the STMA 2010 College Soccer Field of the Year. “Due to the close proximity to the ocean, there is a small amount of salt water intrusion in our irrigation well. If the well is drilled any deeper, the field would be irrigated with brackish water. Due to the shallow fresh water table, the suction line can’t be raised to fresher water. This situation is countered with lime and chelated calcium applications and infrequent irrigation during the rainy season due to large amounts of rainfall.”

Add more than one sport or user group to the mix and finding the time between practices and events to perform maintenance can be a challenge in itself! Constant vigilance and effective communication are the secrets to meeting the challenges of sports turf management in paradise.

Tags: managing sports turf, sports turf
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Tifway tops in turf tolerance

December 4th, 2011

Tifway Bermudagrass once again proved itself tops in turf tolerance performance in a series of trials administered by the National Turfgrass Evaluation Program (NTEP). At any one time, NTEP is evaluating more than 600 cultivars and experimental selection in nationwide tests established at university locations. Trials are typically evaluated for 4-5 years.

Turf tolerance is determined by traffic simulation, which looks at both wear and compaction factors. Tifway was one of four varieties to finish in the top statistical group for each of seven rating dates at the Raleigh, NC trial. When testing traffic tolerance, NTEP considers the species being tested, its typical use patterns, the region of the country, and the traffic simulation equipment available among other factors.

At the saline irrigation treatment trial in Las Cruces NM, Tifway repeated as the highest turf quality performer for the third consecutive year.

Tags: Tifway, Tifway bermudagrass, turf tolerance
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Four steps to winterizing your sprinkler system

November 23rd, 2011

We’d do well to remember a few of our grade school science class experiments when it comes to lawn care. One of those is the effects that freezing temperatures have on water, especially water sitting in enclosed spaces such as hoses, pipes and sprinkler heads. Granted, this phenomenon will not affect all of our readers. In fact, it may affect only a few, but for those of you facing freezing temperatures in winter, four simple steps should help to protect your irrigation system.

Turn off the water supply at its source. The main shut off valve for your irrigation system should be freeze-proof: below the frost line, inside a heated room or wrapped with insulation to protect it.
Make sure the controller is off. Most controllers have a “rain mode” which simply shuts off the signals to the valves, while continuing to keep time. If it’s necessary to shut off the power to the controller, remember to reprogram it in the spring! If a pump is wired to your controller, it is recommended that you disconnect the power rather than use the rain mode feature, as there is a remote possible that the controller could accidently start the pump while the system is shut down, resulting in damage.
Open every valve manually. You risk bursting a pipe or sending sprinkler heads flying when you send compressed air through the system, if every valve is not completely open.
Drain the pipes. Remember those science experiments? Water will always seek the lowest level. Even if you have opened the valves and turned off the water supply, and water remaining in the system will pool at the lowest point(s) in the system.

There are three approaches to draining the system of standing water: open the drain valves, pull the nozzle off each individual spray head or use compressed air to “blow out” the system. A combination of all three is the recommended process. But it’s the introduction of the air compressor where the expertise of a professional is preferred to the “do-it-yourself” method. Too much pressure and you will damage your system.

Tags: sprinkler systems in winter, winterizing irrigation system
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Fertilize in late fall as final step in winterizing your lawn

November 17th, 2011

Sometime in November, when your grass stops growing or slows to the point of not needing to be mowed, (but before the ground freezes if it does so in your area) a final application of fertilizer should be made as the last step in preparing your lawn for winter. If your lawn has been properly fed throughout the summer months, it can begin to store carbohydrate reserves which help grass resist winter injury and disease, and serve as a source of energy for root and shoot growth the following spring.

Even here in Florida, a late fall fertilizing is recommended. In Central Florida a complete fertilizer should be applied to Zoysiagrass and Bermudagrass. If you live in South Florida, St. Augustinegrass will also benefit from a late fall fertilization. (The arbitrary dividing line between north and central Florida is a straight east-west line from coast to coast through Ocala, and the dividing line between central and south Florida is a line from coast to coast through Tampa and Vero Beach.)

The complete fertilizer should be applied at 1.0 lbs nitrogen/1000 sq. ft. 50% soluble and 50% slow-release nitrogen. Proper application is critical, since all soluble fertilizers may burn the turfgrass if improperly applied. To avoid burn, never apply fertilizer at greater than the recommended rate.

Always apply fertilizers when the turfgrass leaves are dry and water thoroughly after application. Apply enough water to dissolve the fertilizer and move it below the surface. This can generally be accomplished by applying between 1/4 and 1/2 inch of water through the irrigation system.

Tags: fall fertilization schedule, fall fertilizing, fertilize lawn in fall
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Winterizing your string trimmer

November 14th, 2011

Last week we shared tips on winterizing your lawn mower. But don’t stop there! Take a few minutes to perform fall maintenance on your other gas-powered lawn equipment too.

Even if you live in South Florida, your equipment will benefit from fall and spring tune-ups. You will be reducing the height and frequency of your mowing and the slow growth period of the next few months will mean running your other lawn care equipment less often as well. Pretend you’re going to be facing a snow-covered lawn for the next few months and perform maintenance on your tools accordingly.

For your string trimmer that means:

Turn the trimmer off and clean the exterior with a soft cloth – removing grease, oil, dirt and other debris.
Check and tighten all nuts and screws.
Drain the fuel tank completely and pull the starting cord several times to remove fuel from the carburetor.
Remove the spark plug and pour about ¼ oz. of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Place a clean cloth over the spark plug hole. Pull the starting cord 2 or 3 times to distribute the oil. If you won’t be using the unit again until spring, pull the starter cord once more, slowly, and observe the piston location through the spark plug hole; when it reaches the top of its cycle, leave it there and reinsert the spark plug but do not connect the ignition cable.
Always store your trimmer in a dry, dust-free place, out of the reach of children.

Tags: fall lawn equipment maintenance, fall maintenance string trimmer, winterize string trimmer
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5 Steps to Cleaning Your Lawnmower

November 7th, 2011

In most areas of the country, late fall means it’s time to put away the lawnmower for the winter. Before you do you should give it a good cleaning. First empty your lawnmower’s gas tank by running the engine until the gas is gone. Gas left in an unused engine for an extended period of time will thicken and become gummy. Then disconnect the spark plug wire. Ready to clean? Here’s how:

Stand the lawnmower up on its side.
Take a garden hose and spray the lawnmower’s deck (the housing for the cutting blade, on the underside of the mower) at full blast. This will loosen some of the dirt and caked-on grass clippings.
Scrub off the rest using a brush, soap and hot water.
Rinse, and then dry.
To reduce future incidence of grass clippings sticking to the lawnmower’s underside, lightly spray some vegetable oil after cleaning.

Finally, drain your mower’s oil tank and refill it with fresh oil.

Tags: fall lawnmower maintenance, lawnmower care
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How to Lay Sod

October 27th, 2011

Carrying sod from a central location to where it’s needed is a lot of work. Sod is delivered on pallets, so when it arrives, have the sod company place the pallets around the yard, separated by the approximate amount of ground each pallet will cover. Begin laying as soon as it arrives.

Lay sod so the rows are perpendicular to the slope of the yard. Start against a straight edge, such as a driveway or sidewalk. This keeps the first row straight and makes it easier to lay subsequent rows tightly against each other.

Butt the ends of the pieces tightly against each other. Sod pieces will shrink as they dry out, leaving gaps between the strips of sod that weeds will fill. Continue laying the sod in this manner until you finish the first row.

The seams between the end of one strip and the beginning of the next should be offset from row to row like brickwork. Do this by starting the second row with a partial piece — either with a piece left over from the end of the first or from a piece of sod you have cut in half.

If you have laid plywood to avoid stepping on the freshly installed sod, sod this area first so you don’t displace the pieces as you work.

Use the roller to compress sod lightly and help the roots make contact with the soil.

Begin watering the sod within 30 minutes of installation to further encourage rooting and to keep the sod from drying out.

Use a utility knife to trim sod to fit around trees, garden beds and other obstacles. Fitting small pieces around impediments generally doesn’t work — the pieces dry out and die.

Keep the sod moist, watering up to three times daily, if necessary. Apply enough water to moisten but not soak the area. Make sure to water the lawn in the afternoon so that it dries before nightfall. Leaving grass wet overnight encourages disease.

Let the grass grow for 1 to 2 weeks to allow the roots to grow into the soil. After two weeks, stop watering for a day or two so the soil can firm up, and then mow the grass to its recommended height, taking off no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. Over time decrease watering to encourage deeper root growth. Fertilize after six weeks. Although you’ll mow the lawn after its second week, the lawn still isn’t ready for heavy use at this point. Keep children and pets off it until after its second mowing.

Tags: laying sod, sod
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Prepare to lay sod with a little T.L.C. – Tilling, Leveling and Calcuating

October 20th, 2011

Getting your yard ready for sod is a process requiring a little “T.L.C. – Tilling, Leveling and Calculating”

TILL

The soil should be prepared by tilling to a depth of 4-5”. One method is to rent a sod cutter to break up your old turf into manageable pieces which can then be hauled off. But that’s the catch – it needs to be hauled off, literally tons of it! An alternative to cutting and removing the old turf is to till it under; using the largest tiller you can find to make the job easier. Go over the lawn 4 or 5 times, until the old sod is chewed to pieces. Spread compost across the area to a depth of 3-4 inches, add any other soil amendments you need, and then till that into the soil.

At this point, you should have 5-6 inches of very soft soil with small grass clumps mixed in. Use a leaf rake to rake out the grass clumps. Instead of truckloads of old sod, you’ll only have a few trash bags of grass to haul off!

LEVEL

Next, use a hard rake to level your yard, raking the highs into the lows. Compact the soil with a sod roller, filled with water. It will still be soft enough for the sod to root, but you won’t disturb the grade when you lay the sod. At this point, you’ll really be able to see any imperfections in the grade. Keep the grade 1” below sidewalks and driveway. Repeat the raking and rolling process until the area is perfectly smooth.

Make sure your lawn drains properly; correct any spots that look like problem areas. Then spread a starter fertilizer over the soil, rake it in with a leaf rake, and roll one last time.

CALCULATE

How much sod will you need to buy? Sod is sold in squares stacked on pallets or in rolls and the standard measuring unit is square yards. To calculate the number of square yards in an area, multiple the length times the width (giving you the number of square feet) and then divide that number by 9 (there are 9 square feet in a square yard).

If you don’t want to get out there with a tape measure, use the information in the public records to estimate the size of your yard by subtracting the square footage of your improvements (your house and any other structures) from the square footage of your lot. Calculate the area of your driveway, sidewalks and any landscaped areas and subtract those amounts as well. Divide the resulting number by 9, to estimate the number of square yards of sod you need.

What if you’re dealing with a circular or triangular shape, or wnat to know exactly how much sod or how many plugs to buy? Use our handy online turf calculator!

Tags: calculating sod amounts, leveling sod, re-sodding, tilling, turf calculator
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Is it too cold to plant sod?

October 13th, 2011

Trees and ornamentals are transplanted in the fall or early winter when they are dormant. Because the root-ball is typically buried deeply enough so that low soil temperatures do not stop root growth during cooler months, the plant’s root system has time to get established when there is little demand for water and nutrients.

Planting dormant turfgrass is a little trickier. Soil surface temperatures fluctuate, closely following the ambient air temperatures. Because turfgrass roots lay close to the soil surface the window of opportunity for sod installation begins closing as fall turns to winter.

But with proper management, dormant sod can be successfully planted. Follow the same recommendations for preparation as you would during the ideal season. Install the sod within 24 – 48 hours after it is harvested, to prevent the roots from drying out or sustaining damage from cold temperatures. Dormant laid sod will need only enough water to keep the upper 1 to 2 inches of soil moist. Frequently check soil moisture by pulling up sod ends and edges to make sure the soil is moist.

Top dress the new sod to reduce potential desiccation and cold injury and to smooth shallow depressions and fill seams, conserve moisture, and potentially retain heat near the soil surface.

Successful dormant sod transplanting depends on proper soil preparation, good soil-to-sod contact, avoiding low temperature injury, and most importantly, proper water management to prevent desiccation.

Tags: dormant sod, dormant turfgrass
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Three reasons to re-sod your lawn

October 10th, 2011

Now that cooler temperatures have arrived, are you considering re-sodding your lawn? Here are three reasons why it may be necessary.

Weeds

Does the area you’re looking at contain more than 40-50% weeds? If so, re-sodding is the best course of action to take. If the weed problem is not that severe, you should be able to treat the lawn with an herbicide specific to the weed.

Fungus

Fungus can spread in your lawn more quickly than you might realize. If a fungus-infected patch of lawn is mowed and those grass blades fall onto a healthy portion of your lawn, the disease spreads. Re-sodding the area is the foolproof way to control the fungus.

Bugs

If it’s bugs that are bugging you, and no amount of IPM (Integrated Pest Management) seems to do the trick, you can start fresh by re-sodding the lawn.

If you have determined re-sodding is necessary, ensure success by using sod grown by the experts at Bethel Farms.

Tags: re-sodding, sod
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