Posts Tagged ‘sod’

How to Lay Sod

Thursday, October 27th, 2011

Carrying sod from a central location to where it’s needed is a lot of work. Sod is delivered on pallets, so when it arrives, have the sod company place the pallets around the yard, separated by the approximate amount of ground each pallet will cover. Begin laying as soon as it arrives.

Lay sod so the rows are perpendicular to the slope of the yard. Start against a straight edge, such as a driveway or sidewalk. This keeps the first row straight and makes it easier to lay subsequent rows tightly against each other.

Butt the ends of the pieces tightly against each other. Sod pieces will shrink as they dry out, leaving gaps between the strips of sod that weeds will fill. Continue laying the sod in this manner until you finish the first row.

The seams between the end of one strip and the beginning of the next should be offset from row to row like brickwork. Do this by starting the second row with a partial piece — either with a piece left over from the end of the first or from a piece of sod you have cut in half.

If you have laid plywood to avoid stepping on the freshly installed sod, sod this area first so you don’t displace the pieces as you work.

Use the roller to compress sod lightly and help the roots make contact with the soil.

Begin watering the sod within 30 minutes of installation to further encourage rooting and to keep the sod from drying out.

Use a utility knife to trim sod to fit around trees, garden beds and other obstacles. Fitting small pieces around impediments generally doesn’t work — the pieces dry out and die.

Keep the sod moist, watering up to three times daily, if necessary. Apply enough water to moisten but not soak the area. Make sure to water the lawn in the afternoon so that it dries before nightfall. Leaving grass wet overnight encourages disease.

Let the grass grow for 1 to 2 weeks to allow the roots to grow into the soil. After two weeks, stop watering for a day or two so the soil can firm up, and then mow the grass to its recommended height, taking off no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. Over time decrease watering to encourage deeper root growth. Fertilize after six weeks. Although you’ll mow the lawn after its second week, the lawn still isn’t ready for heavy use at this point. Keep children and pets off it until after its second mowing.

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Three reasons to re-sod your lawn

Monday, October 10th, 2011

Now that cooler temperatures have arrived, are you considering re-sodding your lawn? Here are three reasons why it may be necessary.

Weeds

Does the area you’re looking at contain more than 40-50% weeds? If so, re-sodding is the best course of action to take. If the weed problem is not that severe, you should be able to treat the lawn with an herbicide specific to the weed.

Fungus

Fungus can spread in your lawn more quickly than you might realize. If a fungus-infected patch of lawn is mowed and those grass blades fall onto a healthy portion of your lawn, the disease spreads. Re-sodding the area is the foolproof way to control the fungus.

Bugs

If it’s bugs that are bugging you, and no amount of IPM (Integrated Pest Management) seems to do the trick, you can start fresh by re-sodding the lawn.

If you have determined re-sodding is necessary, ensure success by using sod grown by the experts at Bethel Farms.

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5 Tips to Get Your Empire Zoysia Lawn Ready for Spring

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011

When you’re seeking a thick blanket of deep green to make a striking appearance in your yard, you’ll appreciate the superior performance and beauty of Empire Zoysia. Discovered in Brazil, amid the lush, tropical foliage, there’s no wonder Empire thrives in hot and humid as well as desert areas. You might not expect turf grass this strong to also be soft, but Empire beckons you to take barefoot walks across its plush carpet of densely packed blades. Especially created for family outings and backyard picnics, Empire welcomes a variety of activities without taking extensive wear and tear.

Tight blade growth also contributes to the depth of color found in Empire Zoysia. With its wide blades and luscious dark green hue that lasts through much of the winter, it’s truly a turf grass that will greatly enhanced curb appeal for your home.

It is one of the few grasses rated to perform well in all zones. As hardy as it is attractive, Empire has a deep, thick root structure, and is more drought tolerant than most varieties of Zoysia once established. In addition, slow growth plus natural chinch bug and chemical resistance means your lawn will require less maintenance, mowing, and watering than with other types of warm season grass.

How to get your Empire Zoysia lawn ready for spring? Follow these five steps:

Step 1 – MOW LOW!  For the first mowing of the year, scalp the lawn with the mower and bag the clippings.

Step 2 – Apply fertilizer at a recommended 1-0-1 ratio.  For example 15-0-15.

Step 3 – Apply pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer weeds.  You can buy it already mixed in with fertilizer.

Step 4 – To prevent Billbugs and other insect pests, put down a broad spectrum insecticide containing bifenthrin.  Make sure to water any granular insecticides into the lawn.

Step 5 – Empire turf needs about 3/4 of an inch of water per week from either natural rainfall or in-ground irrigation.  Overwatering can lead to fungus outbreaks.  If needed, put down a systemic fungicide with an active ingredient.

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How to Lay Sod

Friday, February 18th, 2011

You’ve given some thought to how you use your yard. You’ve prepared your yard by tilling, testing and treating the soil. Now it’s time to buy and lay your sod. To calculate how much sod you will need, use this handy online sod calculator.

Choose sod that has a soil layer of approximately ½ – ¾ of an inch. The soil should be moist, but not wet. The grass leaf should be green, not yellow or brown. Feel the sod; if it’s warm, then it has been sitting around too long. In hot weather, protect unlaid turf by placing stacks in shade, covering with moist burlap sacking, and/or sprinkling.

Install your lawn immediately upon delivery. Turf is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture to survive!

Begin installing turf along the longest straight line, such as a driveway or sidewalk. Butt and push edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a sharp knife to trim corners, etc. Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges, as they will not retain moisture. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

To avoid causing indentations or air pockets, avoid repeated walking or kneeling on the turf while it is being installed or just after watering.

After installing the turf, roll the entire area to improve turf/soil contact and remove air pockets.

Begin watering your new lawn within 30 minutes of installation. Give it at least 1” of water. Water the sod daily, or as often as necessary to keep the turf moist, until it is firmly rooted (about 2 weeks.) Then water the sod as an established lawn.

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Preparing Your Yard for Spring

Saturday, January 29th, 2011

With stories of record snowfalls for most of the country, and more storms on the way next week, according to weather.com, it’s hard to turn your thoughts to springtime planting! Even here in Florida we’ve had more frost than normal. But these cold days will end and this is a good time to make plans for warmer, greener days ahead.

If putting in a new lawn or reviving some areas of your old one is on your “to do” list, the first step is a simple survey of your yard. Take note of which areas of your lawn are shaded. Do you merely have shady spots or does your entire lawn grow in low sunlight? Think about the traffic patterns of your lawn. Which areas have heavier traffic than others? Do you have pets that have run of the yard? Children who play outdoors? A bar-b-que or outdoor living area?

If these questions sound more like ones you’d entertain for an interior design project than an outdoor one, you’re right. We want you to re-think your yard. It’s more than just a plot of ground surrounding your home; it’s an extension of your lifestyle. So instead of creating an outdoor space that will suffer because it’s not suited to the characteristics of your yard or your lifestyle or will exhaust you with upkeep, live in harmony with your yard.

Over the next several weeks, we’ll explain how. For now, just think about how you use your yard. Oh, and submit your email address to us at www.harmonyturf.com  if you want to be among the first to experience this new way of planning and caring for your lawn. It’s outdoor living, made easy.

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Once on the Move, Armyworm Hard to Control

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Like its namesake military force, Armyworms can strike anywhere and become harder to control the larger they grow, however its name is derived from its feeding habits. Armyworms will eat everything in an area and once the food supply is exhausted the entire “army” will move to the next available food source, feeding and moving stealthily during the night, hunkering down beneath fallen debris during the day.

ArmywormThe Armyworm is actually the caterpillar life stage of a moth, and grows to about 1½” long. Pale green when first hatched, they change to olive green with a white stripe later on in the season, eventually morphing into brown moths sporting a white spot on each wing.

The Armyworm causes damage similar to that of sodworms, but it is more scattered and not confined to patches. The damage usually moves in from the edges and often proceeds in a relatively straight line as the Armyworms march across the lawn.

Preventive and organic control measures include

  • Raking up fallen debris to eliminate daytime hiding places
  • Encouraging birds to visit by setting out feeders, birdbaths or nesting material in the area where the worms are feeding
  • Attracting predatory wasps to control the Armyworms by planting dill, fennel, coreopsis and brightly colored flowers near the feeding areas
  • Spraying Bacillus thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, in the late afternoon or early evening hours when you see the first signs of armyworm damage in your garden. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is actually a bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets. There are also numerous chemical sprays available to control armyworms.

Many turfgrass managers use pyrethroids for Armyworm control.

Because they are most active in the fall, it is time to set up your reconnaissance mission now, becoming familiar with the health of your lawn or garden. If these measures are not sufficient to control the advancing army, enlist the aid of a professional pest control company.

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Much Ado About Mulch

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can use in the garden. Mulch is simply a protectiveBackyard Conservation brochure cover layer of a material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic — such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials — or inorganic — such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic mulches have numerous benefits.

Mulch

  • Protects the soil from erosion
  • Reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains
  • Conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent waterings
  • Maintains a more even soil temperature
  • Prevents weed growth
  • Keeps fruits and vegetables clean
  • Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp
  • Provides a “finished” look to the garden

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil. Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches, because of their permanence, may be difficult to remove if you decide to change your garden plans at a later date. Therefore, this tip sheet is limited to the use of organic mulches.

Mulch Materials

You can find mulch materials in your own yard! Lawn clippings make excellent mulch. While not particularly attractive for a flower bed, they work wonderfully in the vegetable garden. The fine texture allows them to be spread easily even around small plants. However, grass clippings are becoming scarce because of the increased popularity of mulching lawnmowers that provide many of the same benefits of mulching to lawns. Newspaper, as a mulch, works especially well to control weeds. Leaves are another readily available material to use as mulch. Leaf mold, or the decomposed remains of leaves, gives the forest floor its absorbent spongy structure. Compost makes a wonderful mulch if you have a large supply. Compost not only improves the soil structure but provides an excellent source of plant nutrients.

Bark chips and composted bark mulch are available at garden centers. These make a neat finish to the garden bed and will eventually improve the condition of the soil. These may last for one to three years or more depending on the size of the chips or how well composed the bark mulch is. Smaller chips tend to be easier to spread, especially around small plants. Depending on where you live, numerous other materials make excellent mulches. Hay and straw work well in the vegetable garden, although they may harbor weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground corn cobs, and pine needles can also be used. Pine needles tend to increase the acidity of the soil so they work best around acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.

When to Apply Mulch

Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter, the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer, mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall than unmulched soils.

If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase the decay of seeds and seedlings.

If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed completely.

Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already have found some other place to nest!

Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice. One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death. Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of heaving.

Applying Mulch

Begin by asking yourself the following questions:

  • What do I hope to achieve by mulching? Weed control? Moisture retention? Soil improvement? Beautification?
  • How large is the area to be mulched?
  • How much mulch will I need to cover the area? Mulch is measured in cubic feet. As an example, if you have an area 10 feet by 10 feet and you wish to apply 3 inches of mulch, you would need 25 cubic feet.

Determine what mulch material to use and purchase or accumulate what you need. Mulch can often be purchased bagged or bulk from garden centers. Bulk may be cheaper if you need large volumes and have a way to haul it. Bagged mulch is often easier to handle, especially for smaller projects. Most bagged mulch comes in 3-cubic-feet bags.

  • Compost — refer to the tip sheet on composting for information on how to make your own compost.
  • Leaves
  1. Collect leaves in the fall.
  2. Chop with a lawnmower or shredder. Whole leaves tend to compact if wet or blow away if dry. Chopping will reduce the volume and facilitate composting.
  3. Compost leaves over winter. Some studies have indicated that freshly chopped leaves may inhibit the growth of certain crops. Therefore, it may be advisable to compost the leaves over winter before spreading them.
  • Grass clippings — spread them immediately to avoid heating and rotting.
  • Newspaper
  1. Save your own newspapers.
  2. Only use newspaper text pages (black ink); color dyes may be harmful to soil microflora and fauna if composted and used.
  3. Use 3 or 4 sheets together, anchored with grass clippings or other mulch material to prevent blowing away.

The amount of mulch to apply will be determined by the mulch material you are using.

General Guidelines

  • Do not apply mulch directly in contact with plants. Leave an inch or so of space next to plants to help prevent diseases flourishing from excessive humidity.
  • Remove weeds before spreading mulch.
Mulch Materials
Material Amount to Apply Notes
Bark mulch 2-4 inches Smaller chips are easier to spread, especially around small plants. Excellent for use around trees, shrubs, and perennial gardens. When spreading mulch around trees, keep the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk. A couple inches of mulch is adequate.

There is no need to apply the mulch 6 or 8 inches high, as often is seen.

Wood chips 2-4 inches Similar to bark mulch. If using fresh wood chips that are mixed with a lot of leaves, composting may be beneficial.
Leaves 3-4 inches Best to chop and compost before spreading. If using dry leaves, apply about 6 inches.
Grass clippings 2-3 inches Thicker layers tend to compact and rot, becoming quite slimy and smelly. Add additional layers as clippings decompose. Do not use clippings from lawns treated with herbicides.
Newspaper 1/4 inch Apply sheets of newspaper and cover lightly with grass clippings or other mulch material to anchor. If other mulch materials are not available, cover edges of paper with soil. Applying on a windy day can be a problem.
Compost 3-4 inches Excellent material for enriching soil.

Bark mulch and wood chips are sometimes used with landscape fabric or plastic. The fabric or plastic is laid on top of the soil and then covered with a layer of bark chips. A caution to this practice: while initially the plastic or fabric may provide additional protection against weeds, as the mulch breaks down, weeds will start to grow in the mulch itself. The barrier between the soil and the mulch also prevents any improvement in the soil condition and makes planting additional plants more difficult.

For Sources of Mulch

Check under mulches or garden centers or nurseries in the Yellow Pages. Your community may also have wood chips from the removal of street trees that are available free to residents.

**This information was reproduced in its entirety from the website of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov .

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What’s Your Lawn Doing for You?

Monday, July 5th, 2010

Do you dread summer lawncare? Does the thought of spending hours out in the hot sun mowing, weeding, fertilizing and watering leave you less than enthusiastic about your yard? To better appreciate the work your turfgrass is doing for you, consider these facts from the Professional Lawn Care Association of America:

The front lawns of 8 average size houses have the cooking effect as about 70 tons of air conditioning, while the average home-size central air unit has only a 3- to 4-ton capacity.

Turfgrasses trap much of an estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released annually into the U.S. atmosphere.

Turfgrasses help purify water entering underground aquifers by its root mass and soil microbes acting as a filter to capture and break down many types of pollutants.

A turf area of just 50 feet square absorbs carbon dioxide, ozone, hydrogen fluoride and perosyacetyle nitrate and will release enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of four.

So your little patch of paradise is cooling, cleaning and purifying your environment. And really, what beats the smell of a new-mown lawn on a sultry summer day?

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Tips on Tools – Just in Time for Father’s Day

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

Do you hear it? The hum of lawn mowers on a summer afternoon…it’s practically a national anthem for a few short months as homeowners across the country put mowing into high gear on a weekly basis. We’ve already discussed how short to cut your lawn in this post. But when should you begin to mow a newly sodded lawn? You can mow when you can pull up on an individual piece of sod and feel that it has been rooted down. This may take two weeks or two months, depending on how well you maintain the lawn.

Photo by Kelly Burke

What to mow with? Riding mower vs. walk-behind vs. rotary…This question and other tool tips are addressed in a great blog post by Kelly Burke. We’re sharing it here because our goal at Bethel Farms is to provide you with an exceptional product and great service and arm you with the knowledge you need to create the outdoor space of your dreams. We’re all about Improving America’s Outdoor Experience.

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Till, Test and Treat – Preparing Your Yard for Sod

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

Are you ready to turn that patch of dirt into a lush lawn? Preparing your yard for the installation of sod amounts to tilling the area, testing the soil, and then treating the soil according to the test results. Smoothing, rolling and watering complete the process.

For the best result, rototill or spade the area to a depth of 10 to 15 cm. (4 to 6 inches). Eliminate drainage problems by having soil slope away from foundations, etc.

Soil test your lawn area with the assistance of qualified service in your area. Then rake in fertilizer, lime, peat, compost, etc. as needed to a depth of 7 to 10 cm. (3 to 4 inches). Rake and smooth the soil removing rocks, roots, and large clods. Roll the area lightly with a lawn roller 1/3 full of water. This will firm the soil surface and reveal low areas that need more soil. Keep the grade 2 to 3 cm. (1 inch) below sidewalks or driveway.

Water the prepared area to settle soil and provide a moist base for turf. Moistening to a depth of 15 cm. (6 inches) is recommended for most soils.

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