Posts Tagged ‘turfgrass’

Basic turfgrass requirements

Saturday, January 14th, 2012

grassA question often asked of students studying turfgrass management is “Which of the following – light, temperature, water, atmospheric carbon dioxide or nutrition – is most important for turfgrass survival?” One correct answer is, “All are equally important.”

Light.

Turfgrasses capture light energy and use it to produce compounds that can be stored in reserve for use at a later date. They produce carbohydrates through photosynthesis, the combination of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen from carbon dioxide and water in the presence of light. Photosynthesis cannot occur without an appropriate amount of light of specific (e.g., red, violet and blue) wavelengths. Aerial shoots of healthy, actively growing turfgrasses reflect green light, contributing to the turf’s color.

Temperature.

Turfgrass seed germination and growth are restricted to a specific range of temperatures. Turfgrass species are broadly categorized as warm-season or cool-season, depending on the temperatures at which they thrive. Creeping bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrasses and the fescues are cool-season turfgrasses. They are best adapted to air temperatures from 60 to 75 degrees F. Warm-season turfgrasses, including bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass and Zoysia, grow best at air temperatures from 80 to 95 degrees F. Warm season turfgrasses lose their color and are dormant during cold winter months.

Water.

Water moves from the soil solution into roots. Once inside plants, water helps protect them from sudden changes in temperature. Roots contain the least amount of water, and stems the most. Nutrients and sugars move through plants in water. Actively growing turfgrasses often contain more than 75 percent water on a dry-weight basis and use from 1/10 to 3/10 inch of water each day. An estimated 1 to 3 percent of the total amount of water taken up by turfgrasses every day is required for growth and development. The rest moves through the plants to the atmosphere. Warm-season turfgrasses have a very efficient photosynthetic system compared to the cool-season turfgrasses. Cool-season turfgrasses need about three times more water than warm-season turfgrasses to produce equal amounts of shoot and root tissue.

Atmospheric carbon dioxide.

The atmosphere contains several very important gases including nitrogen (~78 percent), oxygen (~21 percent) and carbon dioxide (~0.03 percent). Some plants (legumes) capture and use nitrogen from the atmosphere. Animals take in oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. Plants obtain carbon from atmospheric carbon dioxide. Carbon, a component of amino acids, proteins, sugars and starch, is also found in the walls of plant cells.

Nutrition.

In addition to carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O), turfgrasses require at least 13 mineral nutrients for survival and seed production. Turfgrasses obtain the majority of each from the soil. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S) are classified as macronutrients according to the amount of each used by turfgrasses. Of these, N, P and K are primary essential nutrients. Calcium, Mg and S are secondary essential nutrients. Note that although the required quantity varies among the six macronutrients, each is equally important. The amount of each primary nutrient found in turfgrass tissue, in descending order, is N > K > P. Seven other essential nutrients are required in minor amounts. Boron (B), chlorine (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo) and zinc (Zn) are essential minor or micronutrients. Most recently, nickel and sodium have received attention as essential micronutrients.

This article was reprinted in its entirety from The University of Tennessee Extension solely for educational purposes.

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How low temperatures damage turf

Saturday, December 24th, 2011

What happens to a warm-season grass when it is exposed to cold? It doesn’t happen often, but the temperature can plummet, even in the most tropical of climes. When it drops below 20°F, injury to turfgrass can occur. Winter injury can result from any one or a combination of four conditions: tissue desiccation, direct low temperature kill, diseases and traffic effects.

Most warm-season grasses have very poor cold tolerance ratings and enter a state of dormancy or a reduction in growth and metabolism in the fall. This state is maintained throughout the winter and although brown, dead shoot tissue may be evident, that doesn’t necessarily mean the grass will not recover. In fact, this natural state provides protection for the grass when exposed to cold temperatures.

The turf’s cold tolerance is also affected by the weather pattern preceding a severe frost. If the turf has been exposed to several frosts prior to a dramatic drop in temperature, it has been better conditioned to withstand extra cold temperatures. The frost conditions help to increase carbohydrates and proteins in the plants which enable the crown tissue to withstand a cold snap without severe membrane disruption.

Poor drainage, excessive thatch, reduced lighting, excessive fall nitrogen fertilization and a close mowing height are all cultural practices which tend to promote cold injury.

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The Pros and Cons of Night Watering

Thursday, July 14th, 2011

roasting marshmallowSome activities are best suited to the deep dark of night. Stargazing is one. Watching fireworks is another. Roasting marshmallows over a campfire is one. Watering your lawn is not!

While it’s true that watering your lawn is more cost effective when there is less water loss due to evaporation or wind, and those conditions are usually present at night, watering at night has its drawbacks:

  • You won’t be as likely to notice problems with your irrigation system such as water runoff, poor sprinkler coverage or water breaks
  • Grass stays wet longer at night and is more likely to become infected with disease (some diseases can develop in as little as two hours when a film of water remains on the grass!)

So how to take advantage of the optimum conditions but avoid the potential pitfalls? Shut the water off 30 minutes before sundown to give the grass time to dry.

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Controlling Chinch Bugs Is Not a Cinch!

Thursday, May 19th, 2011

It’s not a cinch, but controlling chinch bugs in St. Augustine grass is possible with careful observation and deliberate steps.

Expanding, irregular patches of dead or stunted grass surrounded by a halo of yellowing, dying grass often provide the first clue to the presence of chinch bugs. These islands of dying grass tend to increase in size and merge as insect numbers increase. Damage can develop rapidly, especially in sunny locations during hot, dry weather.

Chinch bug damage can be confused with certain lawn diseases. For instance brown patch is a common disease affecting the leaf blades of St. Augustinegrass. Brown patch symptoms, however, usually occur in a circular or semi-circular pattern, whereas chinch bug feeding results in irregular-shaped areas of dead and dying grass. Chinch bug damage also can be difficult to distinguish from damage caused by drought.

Reduce your exposure to chinch bugs with these best practices:

  • Keep thatch to a minimum with proper mowing. If necessary, employ the use of a vertical mower or aeration techniques if excessive thatch becomes a problem.
  • Don’t feed the bugs! Over fertilization not only creates a delectable dining table for chinch bugs, but it contributes to thatch formation.
  • Water correctly. Chinch bugs prefer hot, dry environments. Too little watering produces this. On the other hand, over-watering creates an environment that cannot sustain the microbes needed to decompose thatch.
  • Guard against stress caused by drought. Drought-stressed lawns are more susceptible to chinch bug infections.
  • Choose a chinch bug resistant type of grass.
  • Use chemical controls judiciously. Before resorting to chemical controls, be certain chinch bugs are the culprit. Inspect your lawn weekly looking for off-color areas, especially in direct sun, and along sidewalks and driveways. When chinch bugs are present in high enough numbers to cause grass to yellow, they can often be found by parting the grass at the edge of affected areas and examining the soil and base of the turf. Products containing diazinon, chlorpyrifos (Dursban®), or acephate (Orthene®) are suggested for homeowner applications. Where any of these products fail to provide control, apply a synthetic pyrethroid such as permethrin.
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5 Tips to Get Your Empire Zoysia Lawn Ready for Spring

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011

When you’re seeking a thick blanket of deep green to make a striking appearance in your yard, you’ll appreciate the superior performance and beauty of Empire Zoysia. Discovered in Brazil, amid the lush, tropical foliage, there’s no wonder Empire thrives in hot and humid as well as desert areas. You might not expect turf grass this strong to also be soft, but Empire beckons you to take barefoot walks across its plush carpet of densely packed blades. Especially created for family outings and backyard picnics, Empire welcomes a variety of activities without taking extensive wear and tear.

Tight blade growth also contributes to the depth of color found in Empire Zoysia. With its wide blades and luscious dark green hue that lasts through much of the winter, it’s truly a turf grass that will greatly enhanced curb appeal for your home.

It is one of the few grasses rated to perform well in all zones. As hardy as it is attractive, Empire has a deep, thick root structure, and is more drought tolerant than most varieties of Zoysia once established. In addition, slow growth plus natural chinch bug and chemical resistance means your lawn will require less maintenance, mowing, and watering than with other types of warm season grass.

How to get your Empire Zoysia lawn ready for spring? Follow these five steps:

Step 1 – MOW LOW!  For the first mowing of the year, scalp the lawn with the mower and bag the clippings.

Step 2 – Apply fertilizer at a recommended 1-0-1 ratio.  For example 15-0-15.

Step 3 – Apply pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer weeds.  You can buy it already mixed in with fertilizer.

Step 4 – To prevent Billbugs and other insect pests, put down a broad spectrum insecticide containing bifenthrin.  Make sure to water any granular insecticides into the lawn.

Step 5 – Empire turf needs about 3/4 of an inch of water per week from either natural rainfall or in-ground irrigation.  Overwatering can lead to fungus outbreaks.  If needed, put down a systemic fungicide with an active ingredient.

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Once on the Move, Armyworm Hard to Control

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Like its namesake military force, Armyworms can strike anywhere and become harder to control the larger they grow, however its name is derived from its feeding habits. Armyworms will eat everything in an area and once the food supply is exhausted the entire “army” will move to the next available food source, feeding and moving stealthily during the night, hunkering down beneath fallen debris during the day.

ArmywormThe Armyworm is actually the caterpillar life stage of a moth, and grows to about 1½” long. Pale green when first hatched, they change to olive green with a white stripe later on in the season, eventually morphing into brown moths sporting a white spot on each wing.

The Armyworm causes damage similar to that of sodworms, but it is more scattered and not confined to patches. The damage usually moves in from the edges and often proceeds in a relatively straight line as the Armyworms march across the lawn.

Preventive and organic control measures include

  • Raking up fallen debris to eliminate daytime hiding places
  • Encouraging birds to visit by setting out feeders, birdbaths or nesting material in the area where the worms are feeding
  • Attracting predatory wasps to control the Armyworms by planting dill, fennel, coreopsis and brightly colored flowers near the feeding areas
  • Spraying Bacillus thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, in the late afternoon or early evening hours when you see the first signs of armyworm damage in your garden. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is actually a bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets. There are also numerous chemical sprays available to control armyworms.

Many turfgrass managers use pyrethroids for Armyworm control.

Because they are most active in the fall, it is time to set up your reconnaissance mission now, becoming familiar with the health of your lawn or garden. If these measures are not sufficient to control the advancing army, enlist the aid of a professional pest control company.

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Much Ado About Mulch

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can use in the garden. Mulch is simply a protectiveBackyard Conservation brochure cover layer of a material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic — such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials — or inorganic — such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic mulches have numerous benefits.

Mulch

  • Protects the soil from erosion
  • Reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains
  • Conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent waterings
  • Maintains a more even soil temperature
  • Prevents weed growth
  • Keeps fruits and vegetables clean
  • Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp
  • Provides a “finished” look to the garden

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil. Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches, because of their permanence, may be difficult to remove if you decide to change your garden plans at a later date. Therefore, this tip sheet is limited to the use of organic mulches.

Mulch Materials

You can find mulch materials in your own yard! Lawn clippings make excellent mulch. While not particularly attractive for a flower bed, they work wonderfully in the vegetable garden. The fine texture allows them to be spread easily even around small plants. However, grass clippings are becoming scarce because of the increased popularity of mulching lawnmowers that provide many of the same benefits of mulching to lawns. Newspaper, as a mulch, works especially well to control weeds. Leaves are another readily available material to use as mulch. Leaf mold, or the decomposed remains of leaves, gives the forest floor its absorbent spongy structure. Compost makes a wonderful mulch if you have a large supply. Compost not only improves the soil structure but provides an excellent source of plant nutrients.

Bark chips and composted bark mulch are available at garden centers. These make a neat finish to the garden bed and will eventually improve the condition of the soil. These may last for one to three years or more depending on the size of the chips or how well composed the bark mulch is. Smaller chips tend to be easier to spread, especially around small plants. Depending on where you live, numerous other materials make excellent mulches. Hay and straw work well in the vegetable garden, although they may harbor weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground corn cobs, and pine needles can also be used. Pine needles tend to increase the acidity of the soil so they work best around acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.

When to Apply Mulch

Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter, the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer, mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall than unmulched soils.

If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase the decay of seeds and seedlings.

If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed completely.

Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already have found some other place to nest!

Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice. One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death. Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of heaving.

Applying Mulch

Begin by asking yourself the following questions:

  • What do I hope to achieve by mulching? Weed control? Moisture retention? Soil improvement? Beautification?
  • How large is the area to be mulched?
  • How much mulch will I need to cover the area? Mulch is measured in cubic feet. As an example, if you have an area 10 feet by 10 feet and you wish to apply 3 inches of mulch, you would need 25 cubic feet.

Determine what mulch material to use and purchase or accumulate what you need. Mulch can often be purchased bagged or bulk from garden centers. Bulk may be cheaper if you need large volumes and have a way to haul it. Bagged mulch is often easier to handle, especially for smaller projects. Most bagged mulch comes in 3-cubic-feet bags.

  • Compost — refer to the tip sheet on composting for information on how to make your own compost.
  • Leaves
  1. Collect leaves in the fall.
  2. Chop with a lawnmower or shredder. Whole leaves tend to compact if wet or blow away if dry. Chopping will reduce the volume and facilitate composting.
  3. Compost leaves over winter. Some studies have indicated that freshly chopped leaves may inhibit the growth of certain crops. Therefore, it may be advisable to compost the leaves over winter before spreading them.
  • Grass clippings — spread them immediately to avoid heating and rotting.
  • Newspaper
  1. Save your own newspapers.
  2. Only use newspaper text pages (black ink); color dyes may be harmful to soil microflora and fauna if composted and used.
  3. Use 3 or 4 sheets together, anchored with grass clippings or other mulch material to prevent blowing away.

The amount of mulch to apply will be determined by the mulch material you are using.

General Guidelines

  • Do not apply mulch directly in contact with plants. Leave an inch or so of space next to plants to help prevent diseases flourishing from excessive humidity.
  • Remove weeds before spreading mulch.
Mulch Materials
Material Amount to Apply Notes
Bark mulch 2-4 inches Smaller chips are easier to spread, especially around small plants. Excellent for use around trees, shrubs, and perennial gardens. When spreading mulch around trees, keep the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk. A couple inches of mulch is adequate.

There is no need to apply the mulch 6 or 8 inches high, as often is seen.

Wood chips 2-4 inches Similar to bark mulch. If using fresh wood chips that are mixed with a lot of leaves, composting may be beneficial.
Leaves 3-4 inches Best to chop and compost before spreading. If using dry leaves, apply about 6 inches.
Grass clippings 2-3 inches Thicker layers tend to compact and rot, becoming quite slimy and smelly. Add additional layers as clippings decompose. Do not use clippings from lawns treated with herbicides.
Newspaper 1/4 inch Apply sheets of newspaper and cover lightly with grass clippings or other mulch material to anchor. If other mulch materials are not available, cover edges of paper with soil. Applying on a windy day can be a problem.
Compost 3-4 inches Excellent material for enriching soil.

Bark mulch and wood chips are sometimes used with landscape fabric or plastic. The fabric or plastic is laid on top of the soil and then covered with a layer of bark chips. A caution to this practice: while initially the plastic or fabric may provide additional protection against weeds, as the mulch breaks down, weeds will start to grow in the mulch itself. The barrier between the soil and the mulch also prevents any improvement in the soil condition and makes planting additional plants more difficult.

For Sources of Mulch

Check under mulches or garden centers or nurseries in the Yellow Pages. Your community may also have wood chips from the removal of street trees that are available free to residents.

**This information was reproduced in its entirety from the website of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov .

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What’s Your Lawn Doing for You?

Monday, July 5th, 2010

Do you dread summer lawncare? Does the thought of spending hours out in the hot sun mowing, weeding, fertilizing and watering leave you less than enthusiastic about your yard? To better appreciate the work your turfgrass is doing for you, consider these facts from the Professional Lawn Care Association of America:

The front lawns of 8 average size houses have the cooking effect as about 70 tons of air conditioning, while the average home-size central air unit has only a 3- to 4-ton capacity.

Turfgrasses trap much of an estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released annually into the U.S. atmosphere.

Turfgrasses help purify water entering underground aquifers by its root mass and soil microbes acting as a filter to capture and break down many types of pollutants.

A turf area of just 50 feet square absorbs carbon dioxide, ozone, hydrogen fluoride and perosyacetyle nitrate and will release enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of four.

So your little patch of paradise is cooling, cleaning and purifying your environment. And really, what beats the smell of a new-mown lawn on a sultry summer day?

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Is your lawn contributing to global warming? Not according to new research!

Thursday, March 18th, 2010

Florida Turfgrass Association logoMisconceptions can spread on the Internet like dollar weed spreads through a lawn! In its newsletter for March, the Florida Turfgrass Association alerted members to an article published on January 22, 2010 in Geophysical Research Letters by researchers at the University of California, Irvine. The article was about carbon sequestration in turfgrass and the amount of carbon resulting from the care and maintenance of turf. Carbon sequestration is a geoengineering technique for the long-term storage of carbon dioxide or other forms of carbon, for the mitigation of global warming. The article reported conclusions that were fundamentally the opposite of previous research findings.

The FTGA explained the Californians’ research process and their conclusion, “Focusing on four parks in the Irvine area, the study found that greenhouse gas emissions from fertilizer production, mowing, leaf blowing and other lawn management practices were four times greater than the amount of carbon stored by grass in parks and lawns.”

Media attention to these findings was extensive, but the study contained errors and miscalculations. The FTGA reported that “Dr. Thomas Rufty and two graduate students at North Carolina State University took apart all of the assumptions and calculations in the research report and found mistakes. Their corrected calculations showed that CO2 generation was 122 g m-2 yr-1 rather than 1238 g m-2 yr-1, a miscalculation of 10X in the original paper.”

The authors of the original article have acknowledged that the new data is the correct data, according to the FTGA. “Unfortunately the corrected data has not generated any media interest. The fact that turfgrass has a positive impact on the environment when it comes to carbon sequestration is not new, hence it is not newsworthy.”

Growing a reputation is just like growing turfgrass – you have to be vigilant about eradicating the weeds! Many thanks to the FTGA for keeping watch. Now, go out and enjoy your lawn, knowing you have a positive impact on the environment!

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