Posts Tagged ‘watering lawn’

Adjust Your Watering Schedule for Hot, Humid Weather

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

Humidity affects more than your hairstyle – it affects your watering practices for your lawn. The heavy, moisture-laden air that can cause the bounciest flip to go limp is also cause for extra care when irrigating. The science behind the sweatbox effect is a formula which gives us absolute humidity. Absolute humidity is the mass of water vapor divided by the mass of dry air in a volume of air at a given temperature. The hotter the air is, the more water it can contain.

You should pay extra attention to your watering schedule during the humid times of the year because your grass does not lose the same amount of water to evaporation that it would on a dry arid day.  The humidity keeps moisture in the lawn longer, allowing you to space out your watering cycles.  If no adjustment is made in your watering schedule, you risk overwatering your lawn, leaving it susceptible to disease.

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The Pros and Cons of Night Watering

Thursday, July 14th, 2011

roasting marshmallowSome activities are best suited to the deep dark of night. Stargazing is one. Watching fireworks is another. Roasting marshmallows over a campfire is one. Watering your lawn is not!

While it’s true that watering your lawn is more cost effective when there is less water loss due to evaporation or wind, and those conditions are usually present at night, watering at night has its drawbacks:

  • You won’t be as likely to notice problems with your irrigation system such as water runoff, poor sprinkler coverage or water breaks
  • Grass stays wet longer at night and is more likely to become infected with disease (some diseases can develop in as little as two hours when a film of water remains on the grass!)

So how to take advantage of the optimum conditions but avoid the potential pitfalls? Shut the water off 30 minutes before sundown to give the grass time to dry.

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The Best Time to Water Your Lawn

Thursday, May 12th, 2011

lawn sprinkler“To everything there is a season and a time for every purpose under the heaven.” Not just a Scripture reference or song lyrics, but sound advice for lawn care and all the activities that go with it, including watering.

When is the best time to water your lawn and why? Early morning or early evening are the best times to water your lawn because there is generally less wind and heat. Wind and heat account for the evaporation of water into the air. By watering in the cool still of the early morning or early evening you get greater penetration into the soil and less run-off.

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5 Tips to Get Your Empire Zoysia Lawn Ready for Spring

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011

When you’re seeking a thick blanket of deep green to make a striking appearance in your yard, you’ll appreciate the superior performance and beauty of Empire Zoysia. Discovered in Brazil, amid the lush, tropical foliage, there’s no wonder Empire thrives in hot and humid as well as desert areas. You might not expect turf grass this strong to also be soft, but Empire beckons you to take barefoot walks across its plush carpet of densely packed blades. Especially created for family outings and backyard picnics, Empire welcomes a variety of activities without taking extensive wear and tear.

Tight blade growth also contributes to the depth of color found in Empire Zoysia. With its wide blades and luscious dark green hue that lasts through much of the winter, it’s truly a turf grass that will greatly enhanced curb appeal for your home.

It is one of the few grasses rated to perform well in all zones. As hardy as it is attractive, Empire has a deep, thick root structure, and is more drought tolerant than most varieties of Zoysia once established. In addition, slow growth plus natural chinch bug and chemical resistance means your lawn will require less maintenance, mowing, and watering than with other types of warm season grass.

How to get your Empire Zoysia lawn ready for spring? Follow these five steps:

Step 1 – MOW LOW!  For the first mowing of the year, scalp the lawn with the mower and bag the clippings.

Step 2 – Apply fertilizer at a recommended 1-0-1 ratio.  For example 15-0-15.

Step 3 – Apply pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer weeds.  You can buy it already mixed in with fertilizer.

Step 4 – To prevent Billbugs and other insect pests, put down a broad spectrum insecticide containing bifenthrin.  Make sure to water any granular insecticides into the lawn.

Step 5 – Empire turf needs about 3/4 of an inch of water per week from either natural rainfall or in-ground irrigation.  Overwatering can lead to fungus outbreaks.  If needed, put down a systemic fungicide with an active ingredient.

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How to Water Your Lawn

Monday, March 7th, 2011

The healthiest lawns are produced when they are watered heavily at infrequent intervals. On an average, the lawn needs about one inch of water per week, either through rainfall or in combination with irrigation. This one-inch rule will normally soak the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, allowing the water to reach deep into the root system.

No matter what kind of irrigation system or method you use, check and adjust it to the soil’s absorption rate. A good rule of thumb is to apply water at a rate equal to or slightly less than the soil’s ability to absorb it. Most irrigation systems apply water faster than is necessary, which wastes water through run-off. Also, don’t forget to check to see if the system is applying water uniformly.

The best way to check both of these functions is to set out a series of straight-sided, flat-bottomed cans for an in-ground system or a few cans for a movable sprinkler system. (Tuna fish cans are great for this!) Run the watering system for 30 minutes and measure the amount of water collected. You can determine the length of time needed to apply one inch of water with a little simple math. If you know the soil type, check the absorption chart below to figure out how long the system needs to run in order to soak the lawn to a desired depth of 4 to 6 inches. Remember to stop the watering for an interval if you begin to see run-off.

Soil Type Infiltration
Inch Per Hour
Time For 1 Inch
To Soak In
Sand 2.0 inches 0.5 hours
Sandy Loam 1.0 inches 1.0 hours
Loam 0.5 inches 2.0 hours
Silt Loam 0.4 inches 2.25 hours
Clay Loam 0.3 inches 3.3 hours
Clay 0.2 inches 5.0 hours

Hilly or sloping areas may require a soaker hose to reduce run-off and allow better water penetration into the soil. Soakers apply water slowly over a small area.

Let the lawn completely dry out between watering intervals. Most lawn grasses can tolerate dryer conditions over a reasonable period of time. Water only when a probe or screwdriver is difficult to push into the ground or it shows that the soil is dry 4 to 6 inches down.

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Much Ado About Mulch

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can use in the garden. Mulch is simply a protectiveBackyard Conservation brochure cover layer of a material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic — such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials — or inorganic — such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic mulches have numerous benefits.

Mulch

  • Protects the soil from erosion
  • Reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains
  • Conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent waterings
  • Maintains a more even soil temperature
  • Prevents weed growth
  • Keeps fruits and vegetables clean
  • Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp
  • Provides a “finished” look to the garden

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil. Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches, because of their permanence, may be difficult to remove if you decide to change your garden plans at a later date. Therefore, this tip sheet is limited to the use of organic mulches.

Mulch Materials

You can find mulch materials in your own yard! Lawn clippings make excellent mulch. While not particularly attractive for a flower bed, they work wonderfully in the vegetable garden. The fine texture allows them to be spread easily even around small plants. However, grass clippings are becoming scarce because of the increased popularity of mulching lawnmowers that provide many of the same benefits of mulching to lawns. Newspaper, as a mulch, works especially well to control weeds. Leaves are another readily available material to use as mulch. Leaf mold, or the decomposed remains of leaves, gives the forest floor its absorbent spongy structure. Compost makes a wonderful mulch if you have a large supply. Compost not only improves the soil structure but provides an excellent source of plant nutrients.

Bark chips and composted bark mulch are available at garden centers. These make a neat finish to the garden bed and will eventually improve the condition of the soil. These may last for one to three years or more depending on the size of the chips or how well composed the bark mulch is. Smaller chips tend to be easier to spread, especially around small plants. Depending on where you live, numerous other materials make excellent mulches. Hay and straw work well in the vegetable garden, although they may harbor weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground corn cobs, and pine needles can also be used. Pine needles tend to increase the acidity of the soil so they work best around acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.

When to Apply Mulch

Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter, the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer, mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall than unmulched soils.

If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase the decay of seeds and seedlings.

If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed completely.

Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already have found some other place to nest!

Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice. One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death. Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of heaving.

Applying Mulch

Begin by asking yourself the following questions:

  • What do I hope to achieve by mulching? Weed control? Moisture retention? Soil improvement? Beautification?
  • How large is the area to be mulched?
  • How much mulch will I need to cover the area? Mulch is measured in cubic feet. As an example, if you have an area 10 feet by 10 feet and you wish to apply 3 inches of mulch, you would need 25 cubic feet.

Determine what mulch material to use and purchase or accumulate what you need. Mulch can often be purchased bagged or bulk from garden centers. Bulk may be cheaper if you need large volumes and have a way to haul it. Bagged mulch is often easier to handle, especially for smaller projects. Most bagged mulch comes in 3-cubic-feet bags.

  • Compost — refer to the tip sheet on composting for information on how to make your own compost.
  • Leaves
  1. Collect leaves in the fall.
  2. Chop with a lawnmower or shredder. Whole leaves tend to compact if wet or blow away if dry. Chopping will reduce the volume and facilitate composting.
  3. Compost leaves over winter. Some studies have indicated that freshly chopped leaves may inhibit the growth of certain crops. Therefore, it may be advisable to compost the leaves over winter before spreading them.
  • Grass clippings — spread them immediately to avoid heating and rotting.
  • Newspaper
  1. Save your own newspapers.
  2. Only use newspaper text pages (black ink); color dyes may be harmful to soil microflora and fauna if composted and used.
  3. Use 3 or 4 sheets together, anchored with grass clippings or other mulch material to prevent blowing away.

The amount of mulch to apply will be determined by the mulch material you are using.

General Guidelines

  • Do not apply mulch directly in contact with plants. Leave an inch or so of space next to plants to help prevent diseases flourishing from excessive humidity.
  • Remove weeds before spreading mulch.
Mulch Materials
Material Amount to Apply Notes
Bark mulch 2-4 inches Smaller chips are easier to spread, especially around small plants. Excellent for use around trees, shrubs, and perennial gardens. When spreading mulch around trees, keep the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk. A couple inches of mulch is adequate.

There is no need to apply the mulch 6 or 8 inches high, as often is seen.

Wood chips 2-4 inches Similar to bark mulch. If using fresh wood chips that are mixed with a lot of leaves, composting may be beneficial.
Leaves 3-4 inches Best to chop and compost before spreading. If using dry leaves, apply about 6 inches.
Grass clippings 2-3 inches Thicker layers tend to compact and rot, becoming quite slimy and smelly. Add additional layers as clippings decompose. Do not use clippings from lawns treated with herbicides.
Newspaper 1/4 inch Apply sheets of newspaper and cover lightly with grass clippings or other mulch material to anchor. If other mulch materials are not available, cover edges of paper with soil. Applying on a windy day can be a problem.
Compost 3-4 inches Excellent material for enriching soil.

Bark mulch and wood chips are sometimes used with landscape fabric or plastic. The fabric or plastic is laid on top of the soil and then covered with a layer of bark chips. A caution to this practice: while initially the plastic or fabric may provide additional protection against weeds, as the mulch breaks down, weeds will start to grow in the mulch itself. The barrier between the soil and the mulch also prevents any improvement in the soil condition and makes planting additional plants more difficult.

For Sources of Mulch

Check under mulches or garden centers or nurseries in the Yellow Pages. Your community may also have wood chips from the removal of street trees that are available free to residents.

**This information was reproduced in its entirety from the website of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov .

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A Dirty Little Secret

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

What’s underneath that beautiful expanse of green has a lot to do with quenching your yard’s thirst.Water soaks into the ground at different speeds, depending on the composition of your soil type. If dirtyou know your basic soil type, use the following table as a general guide to watering. (Soil test kits and instructions are usually available at lawn and garden centers, and at better hardware stores. Soil test services and information are often available through your local County Extension Office).

Soil Type Infiltration
Inch Per Hour
Time For 1 Inch
To Soak In
Sand 2.0 inches 0.5 hours
Sandy Loam 1.0 inches 1.0 hours
Loam 0.5 inches 2.0 hours
Silt Loam 0.4 inches 2.25 hours
Clay Loam 0.3 inches 3.3 hours
Clay 0.2 inches 5.0 hours
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Do You Know the Four Signs of Stress?

Thursday, April 22nd, 2010

Over 70% of the Earth’s surface is covered with water, but that doesn’t mean your lawn is getting enough of it. Here are four signs that your lawn is beginning to show stress from inadequate watering:

  1. Bluish-gray areas in the lawn
  2. Footprints or tire tracks that remain in the grass long after being made
  3. Many leave blades folded in half
  4. Soil sample from root zone feels dry

But before you rush to turn on the faucet, learn how to properly water your lawn, while being a good steward of this precious resource. Sign up for Bethel Farms’ monthly newsletter and download the Drought Survival Guide. Here in Florida we still have several weeks before the “rainy season” begins and after an unusually cold winter, these tips can come in handy.

Water well, but water wisely – and Happy 40th Earth Day!

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